Why Some Designers Show First and Others Last
The Art of Timing in Fashion Shows
Picture this: the runway lights dim, the music starts, and the first designer’s collection emerges in front of a packed audience. There’s palpable excitement. The opening look sets the tone, ignites anticipation, and establishes the mood for what’s to come. Fast forward an hour another designer closes the show with an unforgettable finale, leaving the audience buzzing as they spill out into the night.
But why do some designers fight for the opening slot while others crave the finale? Is it simply a matter of ego, or is there a deeper strategy at play?
Why Timing Matters More Than You Think
In the fashion world, every decision has implications, and runway scheduling is no exception. Being the first designer to show is a statement you’re the icebreaker, the one who gets to make the first impression. On the flip side, closing the show is equally powerful. You’re the last thing people will remember, the designer who wraps up the entire experience with a bow.
Here’s the twist: neither slot guarantees success. I’ve seen designers nail the opening with electrifying collections that set the tone for the whole event, but I’ve also seen first slots flop overshadowed by the designers who follow. Similarly, closing the show can be a double-edged sword. Yes, you’re the finale, but if the audience is exhausted or overwhelmed by hours of fashion, your moment might not land as powerfully as you hope.
And here’s the kicker: the middle slots? They often get overlooked entirely.
The Prestige of the First Slot
Let’s talk about the allure of showing first. Being the opener means you’re leading the charge. You’re the designer who gets the audience’s undivided attention when they’re fresh, excited, and ready to absorb every detail.
Take Alexander McQueen, for example. Back in the day, his shows had a reputation for pushing boundaries, and opening with a bold statement ensured he’d grab headlines. The first slot screams confidence. It says, “I trust my designs to hold their own without needing the momentum of the show to carry them.”
But there’s a risk here. If your collection doesn’t deliver, you’re not just setting the tone for yourself you’re setting it for the entire event. I’ve seen designers regret taking the opening slot because their designs didn’t land the impact they’d hoped. It’s a bit like being the first speaker at a conference: you need to be compelling enough to hook the audience while also laying the groundwork for those who come after you.
The Power of Closing
Then there’s the finale the coveted last slot. Closing the show means you’re the grand finale, the designer everyone talks about as they leave. It’s an opportunity to make a lasting impression, to ensure your work is the one people post about, dissect, and praise for days.
Marc Jacobs is a master of this. When he closes a show, he doesn’t just present clothes; he creates a spectacle. His finales feel less like collections and more like cultural moments.
But just like opening, closing comes with its own challenges. For one, the audience might be tired. After sitting through multiple collections, they’re often less receptive. If your designs lack energy or feel repetitive, you risk being forgotten despite having the “prime” slot.
Here’s a personal anecdote: I once attended a fashion week where the closing designer known for minimalist aesthetics completely missed the mark. After hours of dramatic and colorful collections, his muted tones felt underwhelming. People left talking about the mid-show designers who brought excitement rather than the finale.
It’s Not Just About the Clothes
Let’s not ignore the elephant in the room: timing isn’t just about the clothes; it’s about branding and perception. Opening or closing a show positions a designer as a heavy hitter, a leader in the industry. These slots are often reserved for established names or rising stars who are ready to claim their place.
But here’s the controversial part: sometimes, it’s not even about merit it’s about connections, politics, or sheer financial clout. Some designers land these coveted slots because they have the backing of influential sponsors or industry gatekeepers.
Does that feel unfair? Sure. But the fashion industry isn’t exactly known for its egalitarian nature.
Middle Slots Aren’t Always a Curse
Now, let’s flip the narrative for a moment. While opening and closing get all the glory, the middle slots aren’t as doomed as they seem. In fact, some designers thrive here by creating their own buzz.
Here’s an example: during one fashion week, a lesser-known designer placed in the middle slot delivered a collection so striking that people were texting about it before the show even ended. By the time the final designer presented, the buzz had already shifted.
Middle slots allow designers to avoid the pressure of being the opener or closer. They can focus entirely on their craft, knowing that their work will speak for itself without the added weight of expectation.
What’s the Right Timing for You?
If you’re a designer reading this, you’re probably wondering: should I aim to open, close, or stay comfortably in the middle? Truth is, there’s no one-size-fits-all answer.
If your designs are bold, fresh, and boundary-pushing, the opening slot might be your best bet. You’re setting the tone for the event, and you need to grab attention right out of the gate.
If your work thrives on emotion, narrative, or spectacle, closing could be your moment to shine. You’ll leave people talking, provided you bring enough energy to keep them engaged after a long day.
And if you’re still finding your footing, the middle slots might be perfect. They offer a chance to focus on your art without the pressure of being “the first” or “the last.”
The Unspoken Truth of Timing
Here’s a hard pill to swallow: timing matters, but it’s not everything. The fashion industry is unpredictable, and the slots you fight for might not guarantee the results you expect.
So instead of obsessing over where you land, focus on what truly matters the quality of your work. Because at the end of the day, a stellar collection will outshine any strategic runway position.
And that’s one truth the industry doesn’t talk about enough.
What would you choose: first, last, or somewhere in between?
